Towering above the skyline of metropolitan
Seattle, mystical Mt. Rainier's presence can never be missed. Being this close
to a major population center brings many people to the mountain, but this
heavily glaciated peak should be left for those experienced in technical
mountaineering. With elevations to 14,410 feet and positioned in the turbulent
weather streams of the pacific northwest, the quickly changing weather
conditions on Rainier pose serious objective hazards that require full climbing
gear and the experience to use it. When temperatures are a comfortable 68
degrees in Seattle, the air temperature at the summit may be 20 degrees.
The trad route most commonly followed on
Rainier leads up from Paradise Campground up the Skyline Trail to Camp Muir at
10,000 feet. This part of the climb brings climbers to a point from which
summit bids can be launched in the early pre-dawn hours. Sometimes crowded,
well conditioned groups may opt to climb another thousand feet to Ingraham
Flats to establish their base camp. This first day's climb may require four to
eight hours depending on conditions.
From Camp Muir the route traverses upward
across the Cowlitz glacier and then ascends though Cathedral Gap and onto
Ingraham glacier. Climbing to about 11,000 feet the route leaves the glacier at
the base of Disappointment Cleaver, a prominent ridge of rock that seperates
the Ingraham and Emmons glaciers. Gain the top of the cleaver crest snow field
at 12,300 feet, and from there continue up toward the East crater rim while
negotiating various crevases. You must cross the East crater to the western rim
to reach the true summit at Columbia Crest. The summit route from Camp Muir can
require over eight hours of climbing.
Mt. Rainier is used by expert mountaineers as a training ground for expeditions to many of the world's highest summits. However, guided climbs are available to climbers who are new to the mountain or who's skills may not be quite ready to lead a climb on Washington's most formidable volcanic peak.